How to avoid getting hit by a train

How to Replace Your Bathroom Floor

By Peter Ackerson

Replacing a ceramic tile bathroom floor can be done by the average skilled homeowner. You will need a couple of specialty tools but none are really expensive and the tools will last forever. Realize that the bathroom will be out of commission for about a week or so and plan on it. If you are dong this replacement work part time or nights or weekends add some more time. Remove all loose items from the bathroom. Next remove the toilet. Floor covers at pipe penetrations (escutcheons) should be removed as well. If the existing floor finish is ceramic tile over wood, striking the tile with a large hammer will generally dislodge most of the tile. The rest can be removed using a sharp cold chisel or a masons chisel and hammer. You must achieve a smooth clean sub-surface when you are done. Wear safety glasses at all times.

Once the old tiles are removed you must plan the layout of the new tile patterns. Using the actual tiles, dry lay them on the floor to not only set the pattern but to check the cuts that will be required. It s important to not end up with a sliver of tile against one wall and an almost full tile on the opposite side. You want to get, as close as possible, to have two equal pieces on both sides of the room. Once you have the layout where you want it make sure the rows are parallel to one wall. The wall that is to the right of the doorway is the most commonly used wall as it is where you see the floor tile first. If those rows are straight the rest of the room will follow.

Measure off the wall two feet or to the center of the doorway. If there is no pattern in the tile, center a row in the doorway for best appearance. If you are making a pattern, the pattern may look it's best if centered on the room itself. It is your preference so just decide before you start to lay the tile. Using your chalk line, strike a line across the room as a reference starting point.

You will need a ceramic tile cutting tool, nipping pliers and perhaps a good pair of tile notching pliers as well. The cutting tool can be purchased and is not very expensive. If you foresee a great deal of cutting is required, rent a tile wet saw for a few days. It makes the work a good deal easier. Starting at your chalk line, lay your first rows of tile to one side of the line and do not cover the line as you work. The line will be your grout joint. Work you way around the room doing all your cut tiles as you go. You will not be able to get back to these areas until after the adhesive sets in a day or two. Again, cut all the tile as you go. Wipe off any excess adhesive that squeezes up between the tiles or gets on the faces. You want the spaces between the tiles to be as clean as possible to allow grout to be pressed down into the joints later.

Here's your biggest and most important point. Do not for any reason try to walk or crawl back over the tile once it is laid. No matter how careful you are, you will twist the tiles out of alignment with the only fix being total removal. If the room has a locking door, lock it. If not, barricade the doorway with whatever you can to prevent anyone from accidentally walking on your fresh tile work. Twenty four hours is a minimum drying time. Keeping foot traffic off the floor until the grout is installed is also important to prevent any debris or dirt from their shoes from getting into the grout joint spaces.

Once the tile adhesive is dry you may proceed with the grout installation. Grout should also dry twenty four hours before foot traffic is allowed to return. If there is to be additional construction work in the room, place some good quality brown craft paper over the tile to protect the finishes. If not, replace the toilet and other room decorations.

Pete Ackerson

Your Friendly Building Inspector

http://www.wagsys.com

BICES-Building Inspection & Code Enforcement System Software

Pete is a 30+ year building inspector with experience in both public and private construction industries. From schools to treatment plants, from private homes and condo projects, to large residential landscaping projects, he has worked both in the building design areas and field construction in the Eastern US. In 2006 he formed along with two other building inspectors, Wagsys LLC which produced software for municipal agencies in the fields of building departments, planning boards and Zoning Boards of Appeals.

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Handheld Circular Saw - How to Make Accurate Cuts at Any Angle

Handheld circular saws can be tricky tools to use accurately, they have a fence for cutting straight lines parallel and close to the edge of a board but how do you make a cut which is neither close nor parallel to an edge? With the help of some accurate marking out, a straight edge and some clamps the job is easy to do and you can achieve consistently good results.

So here's how to go about making accurate cuts with a handheld circular saw:

1. Mark the cutting lines onto the work.

2. Measure the distance from the edge of the blade's teeth to the edge of the tool's baseplate. Be careful which side of the blade you measure to, you want the cut to be on the waste side of the cutting line. Here the measurement is 36mm with the waste side on the left and 38mm with the waste side on the right.

3. Using the dimension you have established in step 2, mark new lines parallel to the cutting lines.

4. Clamp a straight edge to the work on the second lines that you have marked, not the cutting lines.

5. Support the work on both sides of the cutting line and ensure that there is nothing immediately below the saw blade's intended path. Taking all the safety measures reccommended by the manufacturer, start up the saw and guide it along the straight edge. Let the saw do the work and don't apply too much forward pressure.

And there you have it, you should have a straight and accurate cut on the waste side of your original lines.

Most circular saws have a v groove on the leading edge of the baseplate aligned with one edge of the saw blade. This can be used for establishing the dimension to the straight edge but again, be careful to make sure it is the correct side of the blade, here it is aligned with the left hand side (waste side on the right). I'm repeating myself but it is important, you want the cut to be on the waste side of the cutting line.

That's it for this post, go and have a go yourself and remember to enjoy DIY.